London — This season at London Fashion Week, a number of designers appeared determined to put the people and craftsmanship behind their creations in the spotlight.
That message was particularly evident in Steve O Smith’s presentation, which departed from the traditional runway format. Instead, Smith hosted an intimate seminar for around 20 fashion editors and journalists in a drawing room at the Royal Academy of Arts.
Rather than models quickly passing by on a runway, Smith took time to explain each outfit in detail, covering both the inspiration behind the designs and the techniques used to create them. These included appliqué stitched onto tulle, intricate beadwork, panniers and ties fashioned from shirts.
At the end of the presentation, Smith paid tribute to the small team responsible for bringing the collection to life. He became emotional while acknowledging seamstress Joanna, who he said made every piece presented, as well as beading artist Saskia and his assistant designer Thomas.
Backstage at Pauline Dujancourt’s fourth London runway presentation, the designer highlighted the extensive handwork behind her collection.
Dujancourt, who is part of the Paul Smith’s Foundation fashion residency programme, said one of her delicate gowns featured 700 flowers individually crocheted by hand. Each flower took around 10 to 15 minutes to complete, with many produced in Peru by women she was able to employ using funds from her Andam Prize win earlier this summer.
She says her clients are particularly interested in understanding the amount of time and craftsmanship that goes into producing individual pieces.
Labrum also placed the people behind its clothing firmly in the spotlight. Before guests entered the runway, they encountered two members of the brand’s design team working at desks, with one hand-beading fabric while another used a sewing machine to work on denim.
The display formed part of the presentation and offered guests a glimpse of the labour involved before the finished garments appeared on the runway.
Labrum’s collection included hand-woven raffia trousers produced in India, alongside shirts, shorts and skirts featuring hand-embroidered scenes inspired by Sierra Leone.
Founder Foday Dumbuya says many people have little understanding of how their clothes are produced or where they come from, which is why the label wanted craftsmanship to become a central part of its presentation.
The focus also comes as artificial intelligence and automation play a growing role in fashion. While AI has already entered parts of the design process, robotics companies are developing technology capable of carrying out physical production tasks such as cutting patterns, sewing and inspecting garments.
Dumbuya says he is conscious of the potential impact of AI on fashion but remains firmly committed to preserving human involvement, warning that the industry risks losing something fundamental if personal interaction disappears.
Liberowe founder and designer Talia Loubaton took a similarly people-focused approach by inviting journalists, editors, buyers and customers into the creative process itself.
Instead of keeping the normally hectic backstage operation hidden, Loubaton used her Sunday presentation to simultaneously produce campaign imagery, allowing guests to watch stylists and photographers work around the models and track which outfits had been photographed.
Loubaton says the immersive approach allowed people to experience how the collection and its imagery were created while giving designers, customers and industry professionals an opportunity to interact directly.
Across the presentations, the attention given to designers, seamstresses, stylists, photographers and other creative workers became a statement in itself. Whether it represented a conscious pushback against technology or simply renewed appreciation for traditional craftsmanship in an increasingly AI-driven industry, London Fashion Week placed the human hands behind fashion firmly back in view.
Story Credit:CNN Style.
